Discovering Mackenzie Country

Another of my articles published in Motorhomes Caravans & Destinations Magazine

Motorhomer Heather Whelan and her partner, Malcolm, investigate the legacies of a sheep-rustler and a plant-lover in the heart of the South Island

It’s known as the Mackenzie region, but we call it ‘lupin-land’. Some people consider lupins a weed on a par with broom and briar but, judging by the number of people taking photographs at the roadsides, others find them as beautiful as we do.

A local woman, Connie Scott, planted £100 worth of seeds along the verges in 1949 – just wanting to make the area more beautiful. The lupins thrived and spread and now, from November to February, swathes of the flowers can be seen.

Vast areas of pink, red, purple and lavender lupins frame views of turquoise lakes and snow-capped mountains. Connie Scott is buried in Burkes Pass Cemetery, and is remembered on her tombstone as the ‘lupin lady’.

The story of Mackenzie

A footbridge links the Church of the Good Shepherd at Tekapo with the town

We entered the Mackenzie District at Fairlie, a small town that markets itself as the Gateway to the Mackenzie. Fairlie has four distinct seasons. Summer boasts long, hot days. Spring is colourful with flowers and blossom.

In autumn, the tree-lined main street puts on a show of gold and orange; in winter, it may be dusted with snow. (Fairlie is popular in the winter, as it is close to the Mount Dobson ski field.) We visited in summer, the area basking in long, hot days, and found Fairlie an interesting place to visit, if only for a coffee and a stroll.

For those who want to stay longer there is a holiday park, and freedom camping is permitted behind the Grand Hotel. In the centre of Fairlie, we admired a memorial statue of James Mackenzie and his dog, Friday.

Mackenzie was a Scot who arrived in New Zealand from the Australian gold rushes. In 1855, he was apprehended with 1000 sheep belonging to the Rhodes Station, which he had driven from nearby Timaru. John Sidebottom, the station overseer, and two Māori shepherds had pursued Mackenzie to the inland pass that now bears his name.

Mackenzie pleaded innocence and fled to Lyttelton where he was recaptured, tried and sentenced to five years’ hard labour. After escaping twice from prison, his case was reinvestigated, and he was pardoned. Mackenzie returned to Australia and obscurity.

But, in the South Island, he became a Robin Hood-like folk hero, admired for his rebellious nature, brave escapades and extraordinary ability as a shepherd. When Mackenzie was caught, the pursuing shepherds noticed signs that this wasn’t the first huge mob of sheep he had smuggled through the pass to Dunedin, where they would have been sold.

Mackenzie and his dog became symbolic of the struggle of the ordinary emigrant, trying to make a living in the new country. His feats of exploration are now recognised: he was the first European to discover the areas now known as the Lindis Pass, Mackenzie Pass and the Mackenzie Basin. This whole district is named after the sheep rustler.

In Mackenzie’s path

Mackenzie and his dog are immortalised at Fairlie

We followed in Mackenzie’s footsteps, driving a circuit from Fairlie. State Highway 8 loops north and west to Burkes Pass. There, we stopped to admire the pretty, Gothic-style Saint Patrick’s Church and read the information panel that describes the Burkes Pass area.

The village itself is tiny and looks hardly changed since its pioneering heyday. At the interestingly named Dog Kennel Corner, we turned onto Haldon Road. The scenery here is amazing – a dusty basin stretching across to distant snow-capped ranges. It isn’t hard to imagine Mackenzie passing by, driving his herd of stolen sheep before him.

A short way along Mackenzie Pass Road, we came to a small, three-sided monument. On each face, the same story is told – in English, Māori and Gaelic. "In this spot, James Mackenzie, the freebooter, was captured by John Sidebottom and the Māoris Taiko and Seventeen and escaped from them the same night, 4th March 1855." It’s a remote place now and must have been considerably more isolated more than 150 years ago.

Magnificent lakes

Lake Tekapo from Mount John summit

We spent a few days at Lake Opuha, just north of Fairlie, where there are three freedom-camping areas from which to choose. Lake Opuha is a lovely spot, with expansive views of the lake and mountains. We found a lakeside path that took us around to a dam, where sailors and kayakers were enjoying the calm waters.

Next, we checked out the more well-known and tourism-orientated Lake Tekapo. The NZMCA park where we stayed was a contrast to the Lake Opuha site – it is hidden away in a clearing in a pine forest. We walked from here around the lakeside into Lake Tekapo township, passing the famous church of the Good Shepherd.

The Church of the Good Shepherd

Built in 1935, this church has become one of the most photographed buildings in New Zealand because of its attractive structure and the picturesque backdrop of lake and mountains. The church was built in recognition of the pioneers of the Mackenzie Country.

Nearby is a bronze statue of a collie dog, a memorial to the working dogs that assisted the pioneering leaseholders and farmers. There is a wealth of activities to choose from at Lake Tekapo, including canoeing, jet-boating, yachting, fishing, tramping, cycling, golf and walking.

Domes at Mount John Observatory

We followed a walking track to the summit of Mount John, home to the Mount John Observatory, one of the best places in the world to observe the night sky. The observatory houses New Zealand’s largest telescope and there are tours for those who want to view the evening or night skies.

During the day, we discovered the breath-taking views of Lake Tekapo, Lake Alexandrina and Lake McGregor as we walked the three-hour loop to the summit of Mount John. The elevation gain is 311m, so I was glad of the excuse to stop and take photos.

Tekapo Springs

After exploring the mountain top, we had a coffee at the aptly named Astro Café before heading back down to the lakeside, where we soaked our aching legs in the hottest of the Tekapo Springs hot pools. Each pool is shaped like one of the district’s lakes: Ohau, Pukaki and Tekapo.

Mighty Mount Cook

Freedom camping at Lake Opuha

Next stop on our itinerary was lakeside at Lake Pukaki, where there is a large area for freedom camping near the dam. A track beside the lake is part of the Alps to Ocean cycle trail, although we just meandered a few kilometres and back again on our bikes.

Christmas was approaching, and we pulled out a tiny wilding pine to decorate our bus. Although it was summer, the glacier-fed lake water was icy, and only a few brave tourists attempted a quick dip.

We left our bus parked beside Lake Pukaki and drove by car to Aoraki/Mount Cook. This World Heritage site covers more than 70,000ha and includes New Zealand’s tallest mountain and largest glacier. There are several walks here, ranging between 10 minutes and an hour.

We wandered around for a couple of hours admiring the splendour – where else in the country can you go for a stroll and see icebergs? The Mackenzie Country is full of contrasts and is well worth exploring.

MORE TO DO

• There are several walks in Fairlie and the surrounding area. We loved the Fairlie River Loop Walk. There are some good eateries in the township; we can recommend the pies from The Bakehouse.
• Freedom camping is allowed at Lake Opuha for up to seven nights, except from 23 December to the second Monday of January.
• As well as the NZMCA park at Lake Tekapo, there is a holiday park on Lakeside Drive and freedom camping at Pattersons Ponds.
• Information on the Mount John Observatory and Tekapo Springs can be found at the information centre in Lake Tekapo township or at laketekaponz.co.nz

South Island's Iconic Sheep and Cattle Stations

MCD writer Heather Whelan explores some of the South Island’s iconic sheep and cattle stations

The South Island is famous for its towering mountain ranges, sweeping plains, picturesque lakes and majestic fjords. Many beauty spots are justifiably well-known and, amazing though they are to visit, are often crowded with visitors.

Molesworth is New Zealand’s largest farm

When hubby Malcolm first suggested visiting some high country stations, I was a little anxious – after all, a glance at the map showed nothing but empty spaces. Some online research reassured me it was possible, in fact desirable, to drive through these remote stations and see for ourselves the little-known, wide expanses of wilderness that make up these gigantic farms.

MIGHTY MOLESWORTH

The historic Acheron Accommodation House is getting a facelift

Molesworth Station is open to the public over summer, and the 207km journey from Hanmer Springs to Blenheim through the station makes a great alternative route for campervans and vehicles under seven metres.

There are camping spots at the Acheron Accommodation House and Molesworth Cob Cottage, so there are options to break the trip and explore some of the walks along the route, or just park and admire the views.

The main road through Molesworth is the Acheron Road – other roads are 4WD only. Because our bus was too long, we left it parked at the NZMCA Park at Hanmer Springs and explored by car as a day trip. From Hanmer Springs the Clarence Valley Road leads north.

Cut into the side of a vertigo-inducing, steep hillside, this goes over Jacks Pass and into the station. At over 180,000 hectares, Molesworth is New Zealand’s largest farm and is administered by the Department of Conservation, with Landcorp Farming responsible for the station’s 10,000 head of beef cattle.

Driving through the station, it is hard to believe that 70 years ago the area was abandoned, the land untenable because of the destruction caused by thousands of sheep and millions of rabbits. Luckily, rabbit control, re-sowing and conservation practices have turned Molesworth around – now visitors can be awed by the beauty of the landscape. 

A welcome sight

The Acheron Accommodation House, built in 1862 as an overnight stop for stockmen and travellers, is the oldest building at Molesworth. Of cob construction, it has a roof of beech rafters, thatched with tussock.

I had been looking forward to seeing the historic buildings on the station and was sad to see that they had been damaged by the 2016 earthquake. However, despite red tape, the Accommodation House still looks picturesque and was no doubt a welcome sight for early travellers.

(Renovation of the house has recently begun, with contractors planning to retain as much as is possible of the original fabric of the building. Hopefully this summer’s visitors will be able to safely admire the house, inside and out.)

The Lower Acheron Suspension Bridge

The Accommodation House marks the start of 59km of road leading to the Molesworth Cob Cottage at the northern boundary of the station. This section of road can be driven in two hours but we took much longer as we lingered – to read information panels, at shelters, at suspension bridges and at every spot that called to be photographed.

Roadside shelters  provide information panels

Our first stops were by the river, where wooden suspension bridges span clear, fast-flowing water. On this quiet day, with only birds for company, it’s hard to imagine that once 15,000 sheep were driven over the river where the Lower Acheron Suspension Bridge now stands.

Further on we admired Pig Trough Suspension Bridge, named for the wild pigs living in a nearby gully. Both these bridges are relatively new, replacing earlier bridges washed away by floods.

Murder at Molesworth

Near the confluence of the Severn and Acheron Rivers is an area still called Red Gate, though the gate is long gone. A signboard tells the sad tale of Ivanhoe Augarde. The young man wrote a letter to his sweetheart and entrusted its delivery to a worker called German Charlie. Unfortunately, Charlie read the letter to other men as he travelled north.

When Ivanhoe discovered that he’d been the subject of ridicule he set off in pursuit of Charlie and killed him. He then returned to the Red Gate, where he turned the gun on himself. The tale is memorialised in the name of nearby Mount Augarde.

LAKES, VALLEYS AND MOUNTAINS

Lake Wakatipu

Our next station visit took us to Walter Peak, on the shores of Lake Wakatipu. Walter Peak is primarily a sheep station, founded in 1860 and still going strong. It runs around 18,000 sheep and 800 beef cows.

Small compared to Molesworth, the station still covers more than 25,000 hectares. There is no through route – the drive is around 90km each way, starting form a small turn-off on the Te Anau-Mossburn Highway, SH9.

With our usual number of photo stops, explorations and a relaxing break at Walter Peak Station, it took six hours for the round-trip. Mavora Lakes was our first stop. Situated in a mountainous landscape, surrounded by tussock grassland and beech forests, it is a magical place and was used by Sir Peter Jackson when filming The Lord of the Rings.

There are photo-worthy spots aplenty in Molesworth

The forests of South Mavora Lake became ‘Fangorn Forest’, while the Mararoa River became the ‘Silverlode’. Enthusiastic trampers can trek the 50km Mavora-Greenstone walkway starting here, but we just wandered around the lakeside and adjacent bush, imagining hobbits and elves behind every tree.

There is a DOC camping ground at the lakes, accessible to motorhomes and caravans, and the area is popular with those who love the outdoors. Many activities that are not normally allowed in national parks are permitted here, including 4WD driving (on tracks), hunting, water sports, horse trekking, trout fishing and mountain biking.

A glimpse of Lake Wakatipu at Walter Peak

It’s a great base for the drive to Lake Wakatipu. The road from Mavora Lakes to Walter Peak leads straight towards the horizon, with the high Eyre and Thomson mountain ranges on each side.

There are a couple of fords to negotiate and some narrow bridges that have fords beside them – so heavy vehicles can use the route. Suddenly, and unexpectedly, the valley was revealed to be a plateau. A lower valley appeared and the road dipped steeply into it.

The road to Walter Peak Station

Then it was on as before until we reached the shores of Lake Wakatipu, where there were views up the lake towards Glenorchy and across towards Queenstown. The road then skirted past Mt Nicholas Station, finally arriving at the lakeside at Walter Peak Station.

Picturesque Peak

Walter Peak is rich in colonial history

As a contrast to the empty, open drive, this felt like an oasis. There were old, white-painted buildings, including the Colonel’s Homestead – rebuilt on a grander scale after a fire in 1977–surrounded by English-style cottage gardens and lawns. There were jetties and a boat was pulled up on the beach.

There was also a hotel with a restaurant and a bar, where we gratefully ordered long cold drinks. On the drive we only passed one vehicle, a couple of cyclists and a posse of horse-trekkers, but the station buildings were busy – a group of tourists had come across earlier by boat, the Earnslaw, from Queenstown.

Shearing at Mesopotamia Station

As we sat enjoying the view they made their way to the shearing shed for an agricultural show and we had the place to ourselves. In the distance the TSS Earnslaw could be seen making her way back from Queenstown, across the blue waters of the lake.

Coal-fired passenger ship the TSS Earnslaw

Built in 1912, the picturesque Earnslaw is the last remaining coal-fired passenger vessel in the southern hemisphere. When the boat arrived to pick up the tourists for their return trip to Queenstown we decided it was time we left Walter Peak Station too, as it was now late afternoon and we had the return journey ahead.

The road to ‘Nowhere’

Mesopotamia is one of the country’s oldest high country stations

A later road trip took us to the curiously named Mesopotamia Station. We were exploring the Peel Forest area, near Geraldine, and realised that the station was only about an hour further on.

Mesopotamia means ‘the land between two rivers’, and originally referred to the area between the Tigris and Euphrates, in present-day Syria and Iraq. Mesopotamia Station was named by Samuel Butler, the English writer who established it in 1860, and it’s one of the country’s oldest high country stations.

Because the area is so isolated, Butler called the satirical novel he wrote there Erewhon – ‘nowhere’ spelled backwards. Our drive took us alongside the braided Rangitata River, and through the valley between the Rangitata and Forest Creek rivers.

At 6000 hectares, Mesopotamia is a comparatively small station but was equally as scenic as Molesworth and Walter Peak. The station has been owned by the Prouting family since 1945 and runs 11,000 sheep, 3000 deer and 500 cattle.

We pass several herds of deer, the stags proudly sporting massive antlers, but it’s sheep that are the main attraction. We saw sheep wandering in the road, sheep in paddocks and sheep being penned and shorn in a woolshed.

Mesopotamia wool is still baled with the stencilled candlestick logo used since the 1860s. We stopped at the end of the road to take photos at the station’s outbuildings. Mesopotamia certainly is in the middle of nowhere, a wide valley with a backdrop of snowy mountains.

As the crow flies, Fox Glacier is probably as close as Geraldine; just the impenetrable Southern Alps between us! But that’s the lure of these remote stations on less-travelled roads: New Zealand at its wildest and most picturesque.

Further Information

• Information about Molesworth Station, including a downloadable brochure, can be found at doc.govt.nz.
• The Acheron Road through Molesworth Station isn’t suitable for caravans or buses over seven metres long. Small campervans will have no problem. We left our bus parked and used the car for our station road trips.
• Access to Molesworth Station is seasonal. This year the road will be open from 7am to 7pm from Labour Weekend to Easter Monday (or the second Sunday of April, whichever is the later date).
• Access by road to Walter Peak Station is from SH94. Details of the boat trip can be found at queenstownnz.co.nz.
• It is 50km from Peel Forest to Mesopotamia Station, along unsealed Rangitata Gorge Road. The station’s website is mesopotamia.co.nz.