Exploring Auckland

This article featured in Motorhomes caravans & Destinations Magazine 

Lush parks, birdlife, nature walks and award-winning bike trails… it’s Auckland, but not as you know it, says Heather Whelan 

Auckland is New Zealand’s largest city and all too often we just want to drive through it, hoping there are no hold-ups on the motorway. However, there is always plenty to see and do in the City of Sails – and it isn’t all connected with boating.

Lately, we have made a point of stopping in Auckland to experience some of the city’s unique attractions. Downtown Auckland is easy to walk around. Last time we visited we wandered up Queen St to check out the Auckland Art Gallery.

From here we walked to the War Memorial Museum, through the Domain – though I admit we took the train back from Newmarket to Britomart, as it would have been quite a hike to walk both ways. Auckland is well served by public transport and, being gold card holders, we were able to use the buses, trains and ferries for free.

lava caves and ghosts

The historic Ferry Terminal building

The one ferry ride we did have to pay for was out to Rangitoto Island, as this was not a commuter trip. Nevertheless, it was well worth the price of the ticket. Rangitoto translates as ‘Bloody Sky’, named by Maori who saw the volcano that formed the island erupt about 600 years ago, and it is the dominating landmark of the Hauraki Gulf.

Rangitoto was created by a volcanic eruption 600 years ago

From the downtown Ferry Terminal, our boat trip took around 25 minutes, passing all manner of craft – from yachts to a Maori voyaging canoe. Disembarking at Rangitoto Wharf was like entering another world. The big city – out of sight here – seemed far away.

A glimpse of the city from the track to the summit

Black scoria rock littered the ground; a track of smaller pieces led off towards the summit. Rangitoto’s symmetrical cone towered 260 metres above us, its flanks clothed by the largest pohutukawa forest in the world. 

Before setting off to walk to Rangitoto’s summit I wanted to check out some of the baches scattered near the wharf. Mostly built in the 1920s and 30s, no-one lives in them now as the island is a scenic reserve, administered by the Department of Conservation.

In the distance, an old bach, a relic from the days when Rangitoto was inhabited

A few of these old homes remain, preserved to show visitors a snapshot of long-ago island life. As I peered in the windows of the ghost settlement I found it hard to imagine the island was once home to several hundred people.

There was even a prison here at one time – it was the convicts who formed the tracks that visitors use today. It took around an hour to reach Rangitoto’s high point, passing through the pohutukawa forest and bush that contained over 200 species of trees, flowers and fern.

This is amazing, given that there are no streams on the island and the plants rely on rainfall for moisture. DOC’s eradication programmes have been so successful that introduced creatures – such as possums and wallabies, as well as the usual deer, goats, stoats, rats, cats and mice – have all gone.

Rangitoto became pest free in 2011. There were seats and viewing platforms at the island’s summit, with great views of the island-studded Hauraki Gulf, and of Auckland in the distance.

Caves formed by molten lava

We could see the city’s other volcanic cones punctuating the cityscape, and right across to the Waitakere Ranges and the Manukau Harbour. After lunch on Rangitoto’s summit, we took a track that looped round to some lava caves.

These tubes were left behind when the molten lava of Rangitoto’s eruption hardened on the outside but still-liquid lava flowed through inside. The caves would have been fun to explore, but we didn’t have torches with us, so left that to some excited children and continued back to the main track and down to the wharf for our ferry.

cycling the rainbow

The rainbow section on the cycle trail

Another day a group of us grabbed our bikes and investigated part of the burgeoning network of urban cycle trails that link the suburbs and city centre. Auckland Transport produce a series of handy maps that show shared paths, protected cycle lanes, quiet routes and on-road cycleways.

We left from Avondale, taking the Waterview Path through a series of reserves to the Great North Road. A section of the cycle track was painted in rainbow stripes here, an unexpected sight that took our mind off the fact that we were going uphill.

Although we were soon nearing the city centre the route remained quiet, skirting first a golf course and then the fringes of villa-filled Kingsland streets. Finally we found ourselves on the famous pink Lightpath, Te Ara I Whiti, an award-winning structure that took us above busy streets and down to the Viaduct Harbour.

At the end of the Lightpath

After that exercise we felt justified in having lunch in one of the restaurants that line the watersides. Then it was back onto our bikes and we cycled along past the beautiful, yellow-hued Edwardian ferry building and into Britomart, where we loaded our bikes and ourselves onto a train back to Avondale.

There are several places for motorhomers to stay in Auckland city. NZMCA members can stay at Tui Glen in Henderson (right on another cycle trail) and there are motor camps in Avondale and Remuera, as well as the option of staying at clubs and Park Over Properties.

a bird lovers’ dream

Looking out at the Manukau Harbour from Ambury

One place we have stopped on a few occasions is Ambury – one of Auckland Regional Council’s parks – on the Manukau Harbour, with a campground area where self-contained vehicles can stay.

Self-contained vehicles can stay at Ambury

We enjoyed the walk along the harbour foreshore from the campground, an area popular with birdwatchers as it is a significant shorebird habitat. The big skies and expansive harbour views were stunning, and the walk was interesting even for those of us with limited ornithological knowledge as there were sign boards explaining local history along the way.

Another track of historical interest was the Lost Gardens Walk, where there are remnants of the stone mounds Maori used in their gardens. Further on, this links to a walking and cycling path leading to the Otuataua Stonefields and Mangere Mountain, one of Auckland’s largest volcanic cones.

Ambury is a farm park, with a variety of animals to admire. Along the 1km walk around the farm area visitors can see sheep, cows, goats, pigs, chickens, rabbits and peacocks. In spring visitors can check out the lambs and even feed them – great for children to experience.

Flora and Sculpture

A little further afield is the NZMCA Park at Ardmore Airport. Because it is close to Papakura Station we have taken the train into central Auckland and haven’t had to worry about parking.

Another advantage of staying at Ardmore is the proximity to Auckland Botanic Gardens. For years we had whizzed past the Botanic Gardens sign as we drove along the motorway, and talked about calling in there some day, but – after visiting the gardens the first time we stayed at Ardmore – it is now a place we visit frequently.

Bird lady sculpture near the visitor centre

Whatever the season, it is fantastic to wander through some of the 64 hectares of land, admiring the huge variety of plants. The gardens are arranged thematically so you can check out everything from the Edible Garden to the Gondwana Arboretum.

There are rose gardens, rock gardens, palm gardens, native forest, lakes, lawns and much more! We love coming upon sculpture. Sometimes it is tucked away within a garden area, at other times there are displays on the grassy area between the lakes and Huakaiwaka, the visitor centre.

Colourful sculpture at the Botanic Gardens

Huakaiwaka is a sculptural building itself, featuring a stone wall, water feature and tree-like columns that support a butterfly roof above the atrium. There’s also a really good cafe here, a great place to enjoy lunch while overlooking swathes of the gardens.

There’s such a lot to see and do in Auckland that we have only made a start on our bucket list. We won’t make the mistake of passing through our biggest city without stopping to explore again!

The Auckland Botanic Gardens is home to many intriguing sculptures – from the surreal to the colourful and playful

Further Information

• The NZMCA parks are at Tui Glen Reserve, Claude Brookes Drive, Henderson, and Ardmore Airfield, Harvard Lane, Ardmore.

• Information about Ambury Regional Park, and about staying in a motorhome at Auckland’s other regional parks, can be found on the council’s website: aucklandcouncil.govt.nz.

• Details regarding Auckland Transport’s Hop Card, giving free travel for gold card holders, visit at.govt.nz/bus-train-ferry/at-hop-card.

• We picked up our Auckland Cycle Network maps at the Britomart Transport Centre, but they can also be downloaded from at.govt.nz/cycling-walking/cycle-walking-maps.

• There is a wealth of ideas and information about what to see and do in Auckland at: aucklandnz.com/visit.

• Auckland Art Gallery Toi o Tamaki is at the corner of Kitchener and Wellesley St. More information on their website, aucklandartgallery.com.

• The Auckland War Memorial Museum is in the Auckland Domain, Parnell. For hours, exhibitions and other information see aucklandmuseum.com.

• Timetables and other details about the ferry to Rangitoto Island can be found at: fullers.co.nz. There are maps of the island on board the ferries. The walk to the summit is around one hour from Rangitoto Wharf and there are other tracks of varying lengths on the island.

• The Auckland Botanic Gardens are at 102, Hill Rd, Manurewa. For full details go to aucklandbotanicgardens.co.nz.

A magical History Tour

This is my latest article in Wilderness Magazine (July 2019 issue)....

A magical history tour

Wenderholm Regional Park has a fascinating history. The first people to enjoy the area were the Polynesian ancestors of Māori. Later, descendants of the Tainui and Moekaraka canoes explored the Puhoi and Waiwera Rivers, fished and built gardens. Little remains from those days except shell middens and place names – Wenderholm’s sandy spit is still called Te Akeake and the headland is Maungatauhoro. Wenderholm’s current name was bestowed on the area by a friend of Robert Graham, who bought the land in the 1840s, and means winter home in Swedish.

The Maungatauhoro Te Hikoi Track, starts near Couldrey House, an attractive, two-storey colonial house. Originally built by Robert Graham in 1857, it was added to by subsequent owners before becoming almost derelict. The Couldrey family restored the house during the 1960s and continued living there after selling Wenderholm to the Auckland Regional Authority in 1965. When they left in 1973, Couldrey House reverted to the council.

We left the quaint cottage garden and entered native bush beside a carved pouwhenua. The track leads fairly steeply up towards the cliffs of the headland and gives stunning views of the Te Akeake sand spit, the Puhoi River and the hills beyond. To the north are the headlands of Mahurangi Harbour and out to sea islands dot the ocean towards Kawau.

The sand spit is covered with gnarled pohutukawa, splashes of red visible from the track. These trees were planted over a century ago and form the largest grove of planted pohutukawa in the world.

The native bush that covers the headland is a typical mix of kahikatea, manuka, nikau, rimu and tree fern and we were lured into it along the Couldrey House Track by large numbers of kererū and tui flying around the treetops. We were hoping to see a North Island robin, re-introduced to the park in 1999, but didn’t spot any.

After about 15 minutes, there’s an open area where the Couldrey House Track joins the Puhoi Track, which is an alternative way back to the Maungatauhoro Te Hikoi Track. This is another good lookout place with more great views – we could see past the Whangaparāoa Peninsula to Rangitoto Island.

Wanting to complete the headland track, we retraced our steps and then continued around to the southern side of Maungatauhoro. The track leads down to a sheltered little beach at Kokoru Bay, which looks across the river to Waiwera. Māori originally named this place Waiwerawera, very hot water, and it has been a thermal resort since the mid-1800s. Unfortunately, both the hot pools and the adjacent water-bottling facility have been closed and their future is uncertain.

Photo: Heather Whelan

The final part of the loop track runs close beside the estuary and past a turn-off, which leads to the road beside the Waiwera River Bridge. Then the track curves northward and runs parallel to Schischka Road to the car park near Couldrey House.

The Winterless North

My latest story in Motorhomes, Caravans & Destinations Magazine

Heather Whelan checks out some great northern spots for motorhomers fleeing the cold

In the USA they call them ‘snowbirds’ – motorhomers who avoid the worst of the winter weather by driving south to Florida. In New Zealand, it is Northland that draws people to overwinter in its subtropical climate.

DOC campground, Tapotupotu Bay

Department of Conservation campsites

Whether visiting for a weekend or parking up for an extended period, there are a variety of places to spend time in the winterless north. For those who don’t need the facilities of a holiday park, DOC campsites must be top of the list.

There are 10 in Northland that are accessible to motorhomes. With beachside sites from Kapowairua (Spirits Bay) in the far north to Uretiti Beach south of Whangarei, ocean views are never hard to find.

When we visited Tapotupotu Bay, DOC’s most northerly campground, we loved the sense of being so far from the hustle and bustle of city life. Although it was close to Cape Reinga, the busloads of tourists who visited didn’t stay for long.

It was only those campers who, like us, enjoyed the remoteness of the site and the pristine natural beauty of the area who stayed overnight or longer. For us, one of the attractions of Tapotupotu Bay was the fact it was right on the Te Paki Coastal Track.

DOC campground, Tapotupotu Bay

We walked 5km along cliff tops to Sandy Bay and Cape Reinga, admiring the stunning views along the coast. Other campers were enjoying the surf. Matai Bay had a similar, remote vibe. We enjoyed more walks here, but it is also popular with boaties, fishermen and divers.

Uretiti Beach had the advantage of being close to the little town of Waipu. We loved fossicking in the antique and second-hand shops here and spent an hour or so investigating the Waipu Museum.

This told us the story of a tight-knit band of Scots who made their way to Waipu, via Nova Scotia, and settled under the autocratic leadership of their minister, Rev McLeod. 

Bush-lovers can park in DOC’s Northland campgrounds in Trounson Kauri Park, Puketi Forest and Raetea North Side campsites. We found Puketi Forest DOC campground almost deserted when we visited out of season.

DOC campsite, Puketi Forest

There were several short walks here that took us right among giant kauri trees. The Omahuta Kauri Sanctuary Walk and the Manginangina Kiwi Walk took between 15 and 30 minutes to complete, but there were longer walks, up to two days, for keen trampers to experience. 

The forest also had mountain bike trails and we hopped on our bikes to explore some of the tracks. DOC camp fees are reasonable – and stays are even cheaper for those NZMCA members who have the DOC/NZMCA campsite pass, valid at nine of Northland’s DOC campgrounds.

NZMCA Parks

Rainbow Falls, beside the NZMCA park at Kerikeri

The NZMCA has four parks in the region: Dargaville, Manganese Point (Whangarei), Kerikeri and Tokerau Beach. Members pay only $3 per person, per night, and can stay 21 days in a 60-day period at two of these sites.

The parks are safe and secure, the gates having a code known to members. Another positive feature of NZMCA parks is that they are often very social spots; someone is sure to invite you to happy hour.

We return time and time again to the Kerikeri NZMCA Park. Adjacent to Rainbow Falls, it is such a beautiful spot – and we’re always drawn along the track to the Kerikeri Basin.

NZMCA Park, Kerikeri

Some of New Zealand’s oldest buildings, the Stone Store and Kemp House, can be visited here, and one of the two cafes can usually tempt us to have a coffee before heading back. Dargaville’s NZMCA Park is just a few minutes’ walk from the town centre.

The riverside parking area is on the site of a historic boatyard and a couple of the old buildings remain. Dargaville is handily positioned for exploring the Kaipara area, Waipoua Forest and westcoast beaches. 

Holiday parks

Because Northland is a popular destination in summer, the area has an abundance of holiday parks and motor camps. In winter most offer low-season rates that are considerably less than charges in summer.

Some holiday parks offer discounts for NZMCA members who stay between April and November. We couldn’t resist staying at the Tauranga Bay Holiday Park because of its absolute waterfront location.

From the immaculately mowed grass at our door we could see up and down the coast – and the beach was just a few steps away. Out of season, we were the only campers.

Motorhome Friendly Towns

Freedom parking spot beside the Hatea River, Whangarei

Northland has two towns, Whangarei and Kaikohe, that actively welcome visitors in motorhomes. Whangarei has freedom camping spots close to the town basin and adjacent to the popular Hatea Loop Walkway.

Freedom camping is permitted in many other places in the Whangarei District, from Ruakaka Beach to the Tutukaka Coast. There are some amazing sites beside the Whangarei Harbour, including Parua Bay and Mount Manaia.

Freedom camping on the Tutukaka Coast

A benefit of visiting in winter is that sometimes you can have the stunning views all to yourself. Kaikohe advertises itself as the ‘gateway to the Hokianga Harbour’ and is within easy reach of the beaches at Opononi and Omapere, and of Rawene, where there is a vehicle ferry to the north side of the harbour.

Kaikohe is centrally placed on the Twin Coast Cycle Trail, which takes riders from Opua in the Bay of Islands to Horeke on the Hokianga.

Clubs and POPs

Many clubs, RSAs, museums and businesses welcome overnight parking. NZMCA members have many of these listed in the travel directory, along with Park Over Properties (POPs).

POPs are private properties owned by club members and set up for other NZMCA members to visit, usually free of charge. A benefit of staying at a POP or a club is the local knowledge your hosts can provide. No matter how you spend your time, there is something for everyone in Northland.

The ‘winterless north’ offers camping opportunities for fishermen and boaties, cyclists and walkers. For those who like to explore new towns there are plenty of museums, friendly pubs and trendy cafes to visit. And the best thing about the area? Its sub-tropical climate.

Further information

• Full details of Department of Conservation sites suitable for motorhomes can be found at doc.govt.nz
• For information about joining the New Zealand Motor Caravan Association and details of membership benefits see nzmca.org.nz
• Freedom camping details for visitors to the Whangarei district are at wdc.govt.nz
• Information regarding freedom camping and dump sites, including a map showing free camping sites in the far north, can be found on the Far North District Council’s website, fndc.govt.nz

Exploring the Kaipara Harbour

From river cruises and pretty churches to ghosts of settlements past, the Kaipara Harbour has much to surprise and delight, says Heather Whelan

The Kaipara Harbour is the largest in the Southern Hemisphere. It encompasses Dargaville in the north and stretches south to Helensville, while five big rivers wind inland, fragmenting the landscape.

This makes exploring the Kaipara region a challenge. It is a vast area – at high tide the harbour covers 947 sq km and has more than 3000km of shoreline.

Roads lead down peninsulas to half-forgotten settlements and there are no through routes. However, this remoteness is what lends the Kaipara its charm – it is a region full of surprises.

There is a wonderful motor camp at Pahi. A road led us south from Paparoa, along a narrow spit of land to a scattering of homes and a large grassy area where motorhomes were parked right on the waterfront.

Like most of the Kaipara settlements, Pahi was a booming area in the late 1800s when the extensive kauri forests were felled and milled.Roads were few and transport was by water.

Nowadays the Pahi waterfront is a picturesque area, dominated by a massive Moreton Bay fig tree, planted around 1850 and one of the largest in the world. A beautifully restored two-storey villa, built in 1905 as a hotel and boarding house, stands testament to days gone by.

There is a wonderful motor camp at Pahi. A road led us south from Paparoa, along a narrow spit of land to a scattering of homes and a large grassy area where motorhomes were parked right on the waterfront.

Like most of the Kaipara settlements, Pahi was a booming area in the late 1800s when the extensive kauri forests were felled and milled.Roads were few and transport was by water.

Nowadays the Pahi waterfront is a picturesque area, dominated by a massive Moreton Bay fig tree, planted around 1850 and one of the largest in the world. A beautifully restored two-storey villa, built in 1905 as a hotel and boarding house, stands testament to days gone by.

At nearby Matakohe we visited the Kauri Museum and learned something of the history of the area, especially the importance of kauri. Visiting the harbour today it is hard to imagine the kauri forests that once grew thickly right down to the riverbanks.

It was kauri that brought many Europeans to the area – as bushmen, saw-millers, gum diggers and traders. When the boom times were over many people moved on, though others stayed on as settlers.

At the museum we were amazed to see representations of the massive trees that were felled, some much bigger than the existing giant, Tane Mahuta. A kauri slab 22.5 metres long dominated one room, while we admired beautifully crafted kauri furniture in another wing.

There were many kauri gum exhibits, including a Maori chief and a sailing ship crafted from gum, and insects cleverly entombed in amber.

Where once kauri was considered a resource, remaining pockets of kauri forest are now treasured.

At Paparoa we explored two short bush walks. The Kauri Bushman’s Walk has recently installed boardwalks and boot-washing stations in an effort to protect the trees from kauri dieback. The 15-minute loop took us through regenerating forest, with stands of kauri to be seen on the ridges.

A longer walk, the Lions Walkway, starts at Paparoa Village Green. In the 19th century, Paparoa was a major shipping and boat-building hub; now it is a small but lively service town.

There was a farmers’ market in full swing when we set off on our walk so we checked out the array of fruit and vegetables, cheese, preserves, hot food and craftwork. On our return we called in at the Thirsty Tui, Paparoa’s hotel, for a cold drink and a light lunch. The hosts welcome motorhomers and offer free RV parking next to the hotel.

Back at Pahi, we made our way to the jetty. Keen to see some of the harbour from the water, we had booked a cruise on the brightly painted MV Kewpie Too. Once used for the cream trip in the Bay of Islands, this little boat now takes passengers into the furthest reaches of the Kaipara Harbour.

Our four-hour trip began in the Arapaoa River and passed several side creeks and small rivers before turning into the Otamatea River near the historic homestead at Batley. The captain regaled us with historical facts about the area and we learned that peaceful Batley was once the social centre of the Otamatea area.

At nearby Tanoa, a small church nestled into the landscape. It was built in 1874 by the missionary William Gittos, who established a mission here after overcoming tapu connected with the slaughter of local Maori by Ngapuhi. It was another place that had seen a turbulent history but was now a tranquil scene.

Our final leg of Kaipara exploration took us south to Wellsford, where we turned towards Helensville. A side road meandered through picturesque farmland to Port Albert. Because the Kaipara Harbour was so big, early pioneers imagined it would eventually have a city larger than Auckland on its shores.

Settlers arrived from England to find nothing but bush-covered plots of land beside the river, where they expected a bustling settlement.Yet again we discovered a virtual ghost town, the scenery as empty as that the Albertlanders found in the 1860s – except now the bush was gone.

We strolled around the area that was once going to be a city, its main point of interest now the long wooden jetty that stretched out into the Oruawharo River. A nearby memorial commemorated the settlers.

Driving west on the Okahukura Peninsula we came to one of my favourite spots on the Kaipara. Most of the settlers in Port Albert and the surrounding areas were nonconformists. These Wesleyans and Methodists built churches as a priority and the one called Minniesdale Chapel is the oldest surviving in the area.

The framework and stained glass windows were brought from England by the Rev Brookes and set up in this beautiful position overlooking the river. We spent some time exploring the pretty, category 1-listed building.

The chapel’s white painted exterior gleamed, and ornate fretwork completed the picture. Inside, the woodwork was unpainted and the simple bench seats and pulpit exuded a sense of calm. Windows framed the waterside scene.

A little graveyard behind the church was the burial place of many early families. It was a beautiful, serene spot. Before leaving the Kaipara we continued down the road to Atiu Creek Regional Park, where self-contained vehicles can stay for one night.

There are a variety of walking tracks at Atiu Creek; we walked part of the Oruawharo River Trail and looped back along the Clearfell Track, which took about an hour and
a half. As we walked we enjoyed incredible views of the scenery that makes the Kaipara Harbour such a special place to visit.