Loving the Loop - Whangarei

This is my last article In Motorhomes, Caravans & Destinations Magazine

From clocks to cafes, markets to boat trips there’s something for everyone at Whangarei’s Town Basin and along the riverside walk known as ‘The Loop’

There are some options for lunch around Whangarei’s Town Basin

Whangarei’s Town Basin has long been a favourite destination for locals and visitors alike. There are shops, galleries, restaurants, and cafes housed in colonial-style buildings overlooking the marina. As well as Whangarei-based boats, there are ocean-going yachts moored in the basin, as international visitors sit out the Pacific hurricane season, or decide on a longer stay. Even though I’m a local, I always find something new going on Quayside and along the Hatea Loop.

First stop for visitors should be Te Manawa, The Hub. This building is one of Whangarei’s information centres and the staff have a wealth of local knowledge. There are lots of maps and brochures to peruse – I picked up the latest visitor guide as I felt I should learn more about the places and sculptures I walk past so regularly.

A lovely spot to stop and admire the scenery

Inspired architecture

The Hub is more than an information centre; it also houses Whangarei Art Museum Te Manawa Toi. The gallery curates a variety of exhibitions, as well as displaying art from its collections. Entry is by donation and it is well worth a look.

On this occasion though, I was drawn to the colourful, funky model of Whangarei’s newest building project, the Hundertwasser Art Centre with Wairau Maori Gallery (HAC). Admiring the organic form of the architecture, I was reminded that the Hundertwasser Centre will be radically different to the surrounding architecture. When completed it will be a unique feature in Whangarei and is expected to draw visitors from around the country and overseas.

Outside on Quayside I wandered up the spiral ramp inside the folly building called Te Kākano (The Seed). It is a little koru-shaped building, something like a tiled lighthouse with round windows and ball-topped pillars. It was built in 2016 as a precursor to the 100-times bigger HAC development behind it. From the top I peered across the building site and tried to imagine the completed structure.

Specialty shops beside the water

Gorgeous galleries

Along the pedestrianised Quayside there are a cluster of speciality shops and galleries. The Bach sounds suitably seaside-like but its name is actually an acronym – Basin Art and Craft House. Every item on sale here is produced locally but don’t be misled, this isn’t an amateur set up, the Bach Gallery sells quality products with a Northland vibe.

On the waterfront nearby I checked out Burning Issues Gallery. As well as being able to browse and buy handmade glass, paintings, jewellery and ceramics, visitors can watch glass blowing from a viewing platform at the rear of the shop. Glass artist Keith Grinter also holds beginners’ workshops.

Te Kākano(The Seed)

Dining beside the river

From a casual ice-cream on a hot day, or dining with the water lapping beneath your feet, there are plenty of options at the basin. There are cafes with courtyards and shady sun umbrellas, where you can grab a coffee or enjoy a lazy lunch watching the activity on the water.

The Fudge Farm is everyone’s idea of an old-fashioned sweet shop, its shelves packed with varieties of fudge and other sweet treats. Started in a farmhouse kitchen using a family recipe, the Fudge Farm shop is a popular spot – and not only with the children. As well as fudge, you can enjoy espresso, cool drinks, ice cream and desserts on the tables outside. I chose one of the delicious ice cream options to enjoy while I looked around at the nearby restaurants.

The Town Basin marina is a haven for the yachting community

Next door, No 8 Restaurant and Bar provides dining in a stunning hexagonal-shaped building. It has a white-painted, balustraded balcony on the second floor and is topped by a little tower. But arguably the best location for brunch or dinner is at the Quay, where the restaurant’s deck is right over the Hatea River.

Messing about on the river

Not only can you sit and admire the yachts, but out on the water there’s the option of hiring an aqua cycle or kayak and, on summer weekends, the MV Waipapa offers cruises along the harbour to Matakohe-Limestone Island. Once home to a thriving industrial village with a post office and school, the island is now a nature, scenic and kiwi reserve.

Claphams Clock Museum

For the kids

Ice cream finished, I set off to walk the loop. At the start of the walkway another unusual building houses Claphams Clock Museum. This museum is home to the largest collection of timepieces in the Southern hemisphere, everything from rare antiques to fun and strange clocks. It’s a great place to take kids.

Outside there’s a huge sundial, and beside it an area of grass destined to be home to a rolling ball clock.Unsure what this was, I followed the signs to a nearby workshop where I discovered the About Time Project. Volunteers have been working for several years to create what looks like a giant marble-rolling toy. In reality, this kinetic sculpture is an accurate timepiece and an amazing piece of engineering. I don’t claim to understand how it works but I stood mesmerised by the rolling balls and clicking cogs. The enthusiastic builders are fundraising so the rolling ball clock can be moved to its new home beside the river. 

Reyburn House

Markets and more

Back on the brightly painted wooden walkway, children were having the time of their lives on a popular adventure playground. Just beyond the play area is Whangarei’s oldest house. A true colonial gem, white-painted Reyburn House is surrounded by a pretty cottage garden and is a gallery for local artists. During the summer, this grassy area is the venue for markets. On Saturday mornings there is a craft market with stalls full of artwork, handmade soaps, garden art and much more. There’s a coffee caravan and live music if you just need to sit and chill for a while. On Friday evenings foodies gather at the night market where stalls sell multicultural cuisine.

Walking the loop

The Hatea Loop Walkway Huarahi o te Whai runs for 4.2km from the Town Basin (or other points along its length) crossing bridges and linking both banks of the Hatea River. It’s about an hour’s stroll, and is a shared path, so watch out for cyclists.

Heading south from the Town Basin, the walkway leads past 16 different sculptures. These range from quite small to enormous and are constructed from diverse mediums, from marble to steel pipe.

Outside Reyburn House I admired Lottie by Kap Pothan, commemorating the first child born to the Reyburn family.

The gypsy fair market

A contrast is Kaitiaki, a two-metre-tall guardian figure carved by Manos Nathan. Probably the most eye-catching sculpture is Chris Booth and Te Warihi Hetaraka’s Wave and Waka sculpture, featuring an enormous stone wave suspended above a canoe. This celebrates the history of the site as a landing place for Māori and European alike. Information panels relating the history and mythology of the area can be found beside the path.

The next section of the loop walk took me over a footbridge, Kotuitui Whitinga, which is sculptural in itself and studded with paua. This bridges the Raumanga Stream, which empties into the river at this point. On the right, the Pocket Park is another entrance to the loop. The Pocket Park, and Bascule Park close by, have been recently developed and feature murals and attractive plantings. Bascule Park has motorhome parking and a pop-up cafe.

Mural on the loop

One of the most photographed parts of the loop would be the award-winning Te Matau ā Pohe (the fish hook of Pohe) bridge. The design is inspired by the shapes of Māori fishhooks and waka prows. This bridge across the Hātea River opens to let yachts pass through on their way to the Town Basin Marina.

The loop walk continues along the far side of the river, past the site of another upcoming project, the camera obscura. This 8-metre structure will be an interactive sculpture which promises to give visitors unique views of the surroundings.

The final stretch of the walk passes beside the William Frazer Memorial Park, home to a skateboard park and a BMX track. The park is also the venue for the circus and the Gypsy Extravaganza Fair when they make their annual visits to Whangarei. On Hatea Drive walkers pass a small marina and cute boathouses, before coming to my favourite coffee stop. Tiny Kafe, tucked at the back of a surf shop by the marina, has a courtyard shaded by a huge old pohutukawa. It’s a great spot to watch all the activity on the other bank before wandering back beside the river and over the Canopy Bridge, its awnings designed to look like sails.

Pocket Park

FURTHER INFORMATION

There are two places for motorhomes to park beside the loop. Bascule Park has eight designated places for non self-contained vehicles (there are toilets at the park). Self-contained vehicles can stay at the car park on Reyburn House Lane. There is a maximum of three nights at both spots.

Te Manawa The Hub Information Centre is open seven days: Monday-Friday 9.00am-5.00pm, and 9.00am-4.30pm on weekends.

Five free and fun things to do in Taupo

My latest article in Motorhomes caravans & Destinations magazine

Heather Whelan leaves her wallet at home to explore some of Taupō’s great inexpensive attractions

Whakarewa Point

1. Walking and cycling

Nothing beats just strolling along Taupō’s waterfront admiring the lake. On a clear day, the views of the distant mountains complete the picture: they are often snow-topped. The shared walkway that goes alongside the lake as far as Waitahanui at Five Mile Bay is called the Lions Walk.

We cycled the route (voted New Zealand’s favourite urban ride a couple of years ago) almost as far as Waitahanui, stopping to test the water temperature (hot) near the Taharepa Reserve, and on past the Two Mile Bay Sailing Club.

From here, the track takes you beside sheltered bays where you get the same fabulous scenery as the folk in the big holiday homes. There’s freedom camping for self-contained vehicles at Waitahanui and, from there, it would be an easy, mostly flat ride into town.

Water rushes from the Aratiatia Dam

Another great cycle ride is from Huka Falls to the Aratiatia Dam. Huka Falls is well known, and deservedly so. At the falls, the mighty Waikato River narrows sending a mass of water gushing down the 11m drop at the rate of 220,000 litres per second. It’s awe-inspiring to stand and admire the power of nature.

The Huka Falls Loop is a grade 2–3 ride, so it’s slightly harder than the Lions Walkway but well worth doing. We started from the Hub Café (with the helicopter outside) and, after fortifying ourselves with morning tea, set off on the cycle trail.

The first part of the track takes riders through regenerating forest beside the Waikato River to the dam. From here, the route loops to the opposite side of the river, then back to Taupō through impressive scenery, including the steamy area around Wairakei.

In one place, we came to a narrow, sulphurous-looking and scorching stream that we cycled beside for a while. The loop is almost 17kms in length, so when you’re finished, head back to the Hub for lunch and a long, cold drink.

2. Ragin rapids

Four times a day during the summer months the Aratiatia Dam gates open for 15 minutes, filling the ravine below with surging white water. Since the gates were firmly closed when we cycled past on the loop ride, we made another visit to check out the spectacle. Taupō’s full Māori name is Taupō-nui-aTia, which means the 'great cloak of Tia'.

Tia was the discoverer of the area, and the ravine below the Aratiatia Dam is also named after him. Aratiatia translates as the ‘stairway of Tia’. When we got to the viewing platform downstream from the dam, the rocks in the narrow gully were fully exposed, and there were only puddles of water in small pools at the low points. 

A warning siren sounded before the gates opened, then gradually the ravine began to fill with thousands of litres of water. First, the water rose almost imperceptibly before rocks started to disappear below the surface.

As more water rushed down the channel, it began to churn and seethe, until eventually all the rocks and the cliff sides that had been above water just minutes before were hidden beneath the rushing current. Unlike the Huka Falls, where the rate of water crashing past is constant, the rising water of the Aratiatia ravine was strangely different: a unique experience.

3. Hot water

Wairakei Terraces

Taupō’s geothermal nature means the area is alive with hot water and steam. Being great fans of heated pools, we always head for a soak when we’re in Taupō. Perhaps the most famous of Taupō’s spa resorts is DeBretts, where visitors have been taking the waters for more than 100 years.

The early rustic, stream-fed pools were first upgraded in 1958, and continuous improvements have produced today’s complex with its outdoor mineral and spa pools, plus indoor pools and treatment rooms.

There is a camping area, and RVs are welcome. Up the road at Wairakei, there’s a different hot pool experience. Where DeBretts caters for families, the Wairakei Terraces are a thermal experience for adults only.

The pools sit below silica terraces and a waterfall, creating an ambience that recalls the famous pink and white terraces. There are no waterslides or giant mushroom showers here - all is peaceful and calm, the only sounds are bird calls and the gently flowing water. But for free hot soaks in Taupō head to Spa Park.

In the past, bathers just found an excellent spot to soak in the Otumuheke Stream, but in 2018 the area received an upgrade, and there are now changing rooms, toilets, seating and signboards explaining the history of the area. You can relax in natural rock pools while taking in views of the Waikato River.

Steamy landscapes

Craters of the Moon

The Craters of the Moon are not free to visit, but at only $8 per person, the admission is super-cheap. At this strange attraction, just down the road from the Wairakei Terraces, you can wander around the steamy landscape and gaze at lunar-like craters. Vents disgorge clouds of steam, while the craters plop and bubble with hot mud.

We spent over an hour wandering around the area, including taking a path up to a lookout, which gave us great views of the surrounding area. The tracks and boardwalks are well marked to protect the fragile ecosystems and also to safeguard visitors - the landscape changes without warning as new craters are created. 

4. Beautiful bush walks

Towering bush at Opepe

There are lots of pretty walks around Taupō, but the best we’ve found are at Opepe, where there are loop walks on both sides of SH5. We started by walking the northern track and were amazed by how many big trees there were in this mature forest.

Although it’s so close to the road, we were soon walking through bush that gave us an idea of what New Zealand’s forests were like before so much was lost. At the far point of the loop, we could no longer hear traffic, just birds.

Historical surprises

Opepe Cemetery

A sidetrack took us to a small clearing where we were surprised to see wooden grave markers. A nearby sign explained that there had been an attack by Te Kooti’s forces during the New Zealand Land Wars. Nine soldiers were killed in the battle and later buried in this spot.

It was a peaceful place, and I found it hard to imagine the bloody scene 150 years previously. There is more history to discover on the southern track. The scenery is more open because of settlement and development in the days when Opepe was a township,

rather than just a name on the map. We saw the remains of a pit-sawing operation dating back to 1869, where timber was cut for telegraph poles, and also the site of a redoubt and a stock-watering trough.

A historical pit saw at Opepe

What made this interesting was a long story on the adjacent information board, recounting the tale of a soldier’s escape from Te Kooti’s men. A man named Cresswell, who was a member of the armed constabulary, was spotted by one of Te Kooti’s scouts. Cresswell fled naked across the Kaingaroa Plains (in winter), taking two days to reach safety.

Years later, while working on the Waioeka Gorge Road, a fellow labourer recognised him. This man had been Te Kooti’s scout and told Cresswell that he’d refrained from shooting him because the sound would have alerted the Constabulary to the whereabouts of Te Kooti’s force.

5. Town and around

L'Arte Café and Gallery

Taupō is full of interesting shops and galleries. If you’re in Taupō over the Queen’s Birthday Weekend, pick up an Art Trail Guide and check out some of the artists and craftspeople who work in the area.

Whenever you visit, you can take a walking tour of the downtown streets and admire the many walls adorned with eye-catching murals, created during last year’s Graffiato event. Lava Glass (where we stopped for lunch after watching the Aratiatia Dam opening) is a fascinating place to visit.

Funky fish at L'Arte

It has a gallery, shop, café and sculpture garden, showcasing the colourful glass art of Lynden Over. There’s a fee to watch the glass blowing and to enter the sculpture garden, but part of this can be used towards a purchase from the gallery.

A mosaic living room at L'Arte Café

We were short of time when we visited, so we didn’t spend time in the garden, though we plan to do so next time we’re in Taupō. However, we did spend ages wandering around and admiring the garden art and sculpture at L’Arté Café and Gallery at Acacia Bay.

This place is a wonderland, where the flowers and trees are enhanced by colourful and quirky creations scattered among them. Judi Brennan is the ceramicist here, and her work includes an outside living room created from mosaics.

More mosaics at L'Arte

Intricate mosaics are everywhere. There’s a working pottery studio and a shop to browse, where Judi’s ceramics are for sale as well as artworks in a variety of mediums by other artists.

We finally sat down to enjoy coffee and cake in the café, named by Lonely Planet as its No1 café pick for the central North Island. We had spent a great few days in Taupō, enjoying what the town had to offer, and so much of it had been free. I had several other things on my to do list, but they’ll have to wait until next time. Taupō, we’ll be back. 

Plenty of fun for families

• There are plenty of places to stay in Taupō. The NZMCA has a park at Taupō Airport, there are several holiday parks, and freedom camping is allowed in designated areas in the town centre. There are several DOC campgrounds, including Five Mile Bay, Aratiatia Dam and Reid’s Farm. Details can be found at: taupodc.govt.nz/recreation/ freedom-camping. DeBretts has powered campervan and RV sites. Information about this and the hot pools is at taupodebretts.co.nz
• Information about other places mentioned in the article can be found at cratersofthemoon. co.nz; lavaglass.nz, larte.co.nz; wairakeiterraces.co.nz
• The Aratiatia Dam gates open daily at 10am, 12pm, 2pm and 4pm.

Our sentiments exactly

Rocking the Hokianga

My latest article in Motorhomes Caravans & Destinations Magazine

Heather Whelan and her partner Malcolm explore some of the Hokianga Harbour’s distinct rock formations and enjoy the relaxed vibe in this quiet corner of Northland

Scattered along a remote beach on the Hokianga Harbour, the Koutu Boulders are concretions, formed like the famous Moeraki Boulders from a hard core within sedimentary rocks. A cementing mineral binds the stones together, and they gain their round shape over millennia, probably by being rolled around on the ocean floor. 

The largest of Koutu’s boulders may have taken five million years to form. The rocks have been described as giant cannonballs or bowling balls, and you have to see them to appreciate their size and variety. Each time Malcolm and I have visited the Koutu Boulders we’ve been alone among the spheres, so it was a surprise to see two other people there when we visited recently.

The couple were German tourists, who said they were intent on discovering places off the beaten tourist trail. When I told them that many New Zealanders, including those who live relatively close by, had never heard of the boulders they were surprised.

A secret beach

The Koutu Boulders are probably not well known because they are in a quiet corner of the Hokianga. Nearby Opononi became famous in the 1950s when a dolphin nicknamed Opo delighted visitors to the harbour. Opononi and its neighbour Omapere are still tourist destinations - their sandy beaches are easily accessed from SH12.

Still, most people don’t realise the harbour has other lovely beaches not far from the main road. To get to the boulders, turn off onto Koutu Loop Road. Near the beach, there’s a short side road (Waione Road) that leads to a small parking area. The beach is beautiful. Because the boulders are best accessed at low tide, we timed our visit accordingly and were treated to an expanse of golden sand as we wandered along admiring the view.

The water was calm, reflecting the high sandy dunes of Hokianga’s North Head and the pudding-shaped islet that resembles a giant semi-submerged boulder. Along the harbour, we could see distant views of the bush-clad mountains of the north Hokianga.

Among the giants

The boulders are clustered above the high tide line, many a good 3m in diameter, though the giants at the far end of the beach were as large as 5m and towered over us. Some were perfectly spherical, others kina-shaped.

A few of the boulders had split open like segments of an orange. Another had fallen into two halves with its core revealed like a stone in a giant peach. The German tourists pointed out one they said looked like a colossal face: a little imagination turned the boulder into a troll’s head.

New Zealands third-oldest settlement

Rawene is full of pretty old buildings

The Hokianga Harbour is said to have been first discovered by the Polynesian explorer Kupe. Its original name was Te Hokianga-a-Kupe, the returning place of Kupe. Legends tell that when he sailed back to Hawaiki, he left behind two taniwha (water spirits) to guide the safe landings of those who followed in his footsteps.

Indeed, the bar at the Hokianga Harbour entrance discouraged early European shipping, though some braved the waters to fell the timber that grew densely along its banks. One of the first to discover this timber was Captain James Herd who bought land in the 1820s at what became known as Herd’s Point.

By the 1860s, the area had been divided up, and the place was renamed the Hokianga Township. Twenty years later, the growing settlement was given the name Rawene. Timber milling continued until 1928, but the settlement’s reliance on water transport faded with the development of roads. However, a ferry still plies the waters to Kohukohu on the harbour’s north side.

After parking by the waterside in Rawene, we headed for our favourite café in the town, The Boatshed, on Clendon Esplanade. The food and service are excellent - Rawene may be a small place, but it is far from unsophisticated. The art and crafts in the local shops are well worth taking a look at while you’re there. 

Geological wonders

The path took us beneath huge rocks

Close to the head of the harbour, near the tiny settlement at Horeke, are the Wairere Boulders. Unlike the concretions at Koutu, these are far from spherical. Instead, the jumbled monsters that fill the valley are ridged and scored dramatically. Once, these basalt rocks (formed by lava from an eruption at the site of Lake Omapere 2.8 million years ago) were beneath a kauri forest.

Over time, rainfall through the kauri became acidic and eroded the rocks below. Later, the stones cracked and broke apart, while the underlying soil washed away. The stranded boulders, some nearly 10m high, are thought to be unique.

Felix and Rita Schaad created the Wairere Boulders Nature Park in the early 2000s. They built paths through, over and around the boulders, adding quirky signage and making the valley magical for young and old alike with painted rocks and fairy houses.

At Wairere Boulders

Since 2017, the Grant family has become ‘Team Boulder’, taking over from the Schaads. The Grants have expanded the experience at Wairere Boulders by adding a campground, B&B accommodation and a small café.

Our recent visit recalled our first years ago. This time, just like then, there was no one else around, and we left our entrance fee in an honesty box. After investigating the camping area and browsing the photos and stories in the info shed, we set off to do the loop walk.

On the loop walk

This easy track will take you over bridges, along boardwalks, up and down stairs and, somewhat disconcertingly, under massive boulders that were balanced one upon another. Along the way, we spotted ‘boulder beasts’ and fairy doors, as well as enjoying the lovely bush. We took a side-track to the swimming hole. It looked tempting, but we didn’t have togs with us - something to remember for a future visit.

The Boulder Loop took us about an hour. We could have headed off on the longer Lookout Track or the Magic Rock Tramp, but the day was hot and cold drinks were calling, so we returned to the car park and bid the Hokianga Harbour farewell for now. Like Kupe, we’ll be returning before too long.

further information

• The Koutu Loop Road is about 6km from Opononi or, if coming from Kaikohe, it’s about 10km past the Rawene turn. There is another entrance to the beach at Cabbage Tree Bay Road further along Waione Road, but we haven’t parked there. Bear in mind these roads are narrow and unsealed.
• More information about the Koutu Boulders and other places of interest on the Hokianga Harbour can be found at hokianga.com
• Wairere Boulders is near Horeke. About 2km along the Taheke-Horeke Road there’s a turn onto McDonnell Road. The boulders are about 500m further on at the end of the road. The website, wairereboulders.co.nz, has information and details. Camping there is from 1 December to Easter, with free overnight parking when you pay to enter the boulders.
• We’ve heard there is a camping area at Koutu called Koutu Mangeroa; basic but cheap and with great views. Rawene has a holiday park with power sites.

Whangarei's Street Art

This is my latest article in Motorhomes Caravans and Destinations Magazine

Heather Whelan takes a closer look at Whāngārei's street art

Last year, Whāngārei hosted an international arts festival, Street Prints Manaia, where artists painted 15 large-scale murals around the city. The theme was ‘tuia te muka tāngata’ - weaving the threads of humanity - and the artists interpreted this in various ways.

After downloading a map of the murals’ locations, I spent a couple of hours wandering around Whāngārei, discovering and admiring the large paintings. Some artworks were rendered powerfully in black and white while others were painted in vivid colours.

People and animals were represented, either realistically or in abstract or fantastical ways. The artists themselves came from as far away as Brazil and Italy, though a few were homegrown. One of my favourite works was by Whāngārei artist Earnest Bradley, who was a driving force behind Street Prints Manaia.

Beautiful Bridges

When tracking down the murals, I became aware of a variety of other artworks that have appeared in the city. Walking beneath two of Whāngārei’s rail bridges, there are huge murals, painted as part of Resene’s Mural Masterpieces Competition. On Rust Avenue, Trent Morgan and helpers painted a variety of symbols linked to the city.

On one wall, the blocks of colour suggest weaving, the blue and green used on the other side show the profile of Whāngārei Heads. Jasmine Fuller’s depiction of Northland’s flora and fauna on the Water Street Bridge are based on the theme of turning to nature for inspiration.

Funky Artwork

Unity by Earnest Bradley

The Austrian artist Friedensreich Hundertwasser has had a significant influence on Whāngārei. The Arts Museum Trust is behind the building of a Hundertwasser-inspired gallery at the Town Basin, and there are themed works all around the city.

On Rathbone Street, a face with a moko kauae (chin tattoo) looks out from an artwork inspired by Hundertwasser’s Irinaland Over the Balkans, while around the corner, students from a local primary school have their pictures displayed. Their art was enlarged and made permanent by the team at bepartoftheart.co.nz.

TuiaTe Muka Tangata by Charles and Janine Williams

There’s more art to be found along ‘the Loop’, Whāngārei’s waterfront walkway. Earnest Bradley is responsible for the bird pictures on the toilet block as well as the children depicted having fun on the other side of the river. Mike Tupaea and Charles Williams are two other local mural artists; their works can be seen at the Pocket Park that links the walkway to the shopping centre at Okara.

A whale, birds and kites are all part of the murals that represent Māori mythology related to the area. And then there are the murals decorating businesses around the city. At the Town Basin, there’s a beautiful work adorning the walls of Clapham’s Clock Museum painted by artist Steve Pike, while at Laurie Hall Park, flowers adorn the walls of Mint Floral, a florist shop.

The mural was painted by Jasmine Fuller (also responsible for one of the bridges) and her partner Bryce, who own the business. There are many more murals to be found, seemingly around every corner. Even the council building, Forum North, has new panels outside. Whāngārei’s street art is worth checking out.

When you’re visiting Whāngārei, why don’t you... go for a cycle?

Whāngārei’s cycle network expanded with the opening of the shared path section from Kensington to Kamo. Leave from opposite the library on Rust Avenue (where you can use the internet, get a drink at the café and admire the 10 carved pou representing Māori, Celtic, Pacific Island, Korean and Dalmatian cultures).

The 6.5km of path takes riders (or walkers) past parks, schools and shops out to the city fringes. Another good ride is around the Hatea Loop, which goes from the Town Basin beside the Hatea River. A side-trip from the Loop Track turns at the Te Matau a Pohe opening bridge and takes riders along a 6km off-road section to Onerahi.

After trailing beside the river, the track goes uphill and connects to the Waimahanga Track. (There is a car park on Waimahanga Road for those who want to cycle this section only.) Gum trees and banksias line the route along the track, and the surface is red, giving the impression of cycling in Australia. This section was once an old railway line, so it is flat. The next part goes uphill then down to the harbourside at Onerahi.

Further Information

• A printable map of the murals created as part of Street Prints Manaia can be found at whangareinz.com
• There are places for motorhomes beside the Loop Walkway — Bascule Car Park on Port Road (for non-self-contained vehicles) and Finlayson Street Car Park (self-contained)
• A downloadable brochure outlining freedom-camping areas in the Whāngārei district is at wdc.govt.nz

Looking for other fun things to do in Whāngārei? Here are a few suggestions.

Climb a mountain

Mair Park nestles beside the Hatea River in central Whāngārei. There is a river walk from the Town Basin to Whareora Road that takes about an hour but, if you want a view, go up one of the two tracks that lead to the mountain’s summit.

Parihaka is a bush-covered former pā site, and it takes between 40 and 50 minutes to reach the top. The views over the city and along the harbour from the 240m summit are amazing and well worth the climb.

Check out a Kauri

A.H. Reed Kauri Park has been a reserve for 130 years and is named after the naturalist, writer and long-distance walker. Raised boardwalks take you over streams, through the forest canopy and around the bases of mature kauri trees, some 500 years old. There are two loop walks here, taking between 15 and 30 minutes.

Discover a waterfall

Whāngārei Falls is just a few kilometres from the city centre but seems a million miles from any hustle and bustle. It’s a 30-minute loop walk from the car park to viewing platforms on both sides of the river and to the base of the falls.

Whāngārei Falls are stunning, dropping more than 26m over basalt cliffs into a pool at the bottom. There is a footbridge across the river, which is a great spot for admiring the action. It is also possible to walk to Whāngārei Falls from A.H. Reed Park, passing through farmland and native bush.

Boots Bikes and Backroads

I've just published the story of our trip around New Zealand by motorhome on a blog called

Boots Bikes and Backroads

You can find it at heatherwhelan6.blogspot.com

The blog has 32 posts (chapters) starting at Cape Reinga and ending on Stewart Island.  It describes all the cycle trails, walks and places of interest we explored and it can be read through as a book, or you can just dip in and read about a place that interests you. 

On the Old Trade Route

There’s more to the north than just beautiful beaches, says Heather Whelan as she follows in the footsteps of early traders and missionaries from the Bay of Islands to the Hokianga Harbour
This article was recently published in Motorhomes caravans & Destinations magazine

A map on a barrel outside the Stone Store piqued my interest. "Travel the old trade route," it said, showing the locations of early Christian mission properties dotted across the countryside from the Bay of Islands to the Hokianga Harbour.

Stone Store. Kerikeri

Being Northlanders, we’ve visited these places over the years but we decided it was high time to revisit and see what was new. I picked up the Historic Northland brochure and we began our tour. The reference to trade is evident at the Stone Store; it was built as a storehouse and opened for business in 1836.

Nowadays, the ground floor of the building is a combination of museum and shop. The storekeepers are dressed in period costume, and the items for sale are authentic trade goods, like those sold here a hundred or more years ago. There are agricultural tools, ladles, bolts of cloth, barrels, jute sacks and much more.

In the adjacent room are quaint reproduction posters, toys, games, books - everything with a Victorian or retro vibe. It’s the sort of place in which you could spend hours browsing. The Stone Store’s two upper floors are the museum proper. We are members of Heritage New Zealand so were waved through.

After removing our shoes to help preserve the wooden flooring, we went up windy stairs to the second floor. There is a reference library here, with files of information on the early missionary families and their lives - a historian and genealogist’s delight.

Then, after peering down through the glassed-over trapdoor to the store below, we perused information panels outlining the history of the Stone Store, Kemp House, the missionaries who lived there and the Māori chiefs who watched over them.

A snapshot of settler life

The Stone Store is the country’s oldest surviving stone building and adjacent Kemp House is the oldest European wooden building. The two buildings are all that remains of the Church Missionary Society’s mission to New Zealand, founded in 1819. Kemp House was built in 1821.

Ten years later, the Kemp family moved in, and they stayed on after the mission closed in 1848. Amazingly, Kemp descendants continued to live in the house until 1974, when the house and contents were presented to New Zealand Historic Places Trust, now Heritage New Zealand.

The interior of Kemp House is little changed from its original state. The locally milled wide Kauri boards are painted; the floors have rugs and mats. The last Kemps to live in the house were elderly spinsters who kept things as they were in their grandparents’ day.

It is easy to picture the missionary families going about their daily lives – what is harder to imagine are the hundreds, and on occasion thousands, of troops preparing for war right outside the front door. Since the Kerikeri Basin was bypassed in 2008, the area has become a haven.

Moored yachts are reflected in the water; children feed ducks while their parents enjoy a drink or meal in one of the cafés. Besides the aptly-named Pear Tree restaurant is New Zealand’s oldest remaining pear tree, planted 200 years ago and still thriving. Behind the café is a track to Kororipo Pā, once Hongi Hika’s stronghold, now an empty hillside, topped by palisades and information panels.

A French-style tannery and printery

Pompallier House

Next on our itinerary was Russell, a ferry ride from Opua. Back in the early 1800s, Māori and settlers, whalers, sealers and missionaries were all mingling in the Bay of Islands. Māori were keen to trade with the Europeans and to sample their new technologies and foodstuffs (although many just wanted muskets).

Russell was so rough and rowdy it became known as the ‘hell-hole of the Pacific’. Now its quiet streets are home to cafés and shops, its old buildings neatly painted - the little town is more paradise than hell. Russell is also home to the Pompallier Mission, named after Bishop Pompallier who established a Catholic mission station here in 1839.

Over the next decade, the brothers built a residence, dormitory, chapel, cookhouse and the surviving building - now known as the Mission House. In reality, this building was where religious tracts and books were produced. It housed a tannery, currier’s workshop, composition (type-setting), binding and printing rooms.

Printing equipment, ready to coin a phrase, at Pompallier House

Unlike the English mission houses, which were Georgian-style wooden buildings, the French built a two-storey, rammed-earth structure. Pompallier House looks like a little piece of France. Surrounded by gardens with heritage fruit trees and flower beds, and facing the beach where waves gently lap and boats bob at anchor, everything was serene when we arrived.

I half expected to see a robed priest flit between the trees. We were just in time for a tour. This turned out to be excellent. Our guide spent 45 minutes explaining how the mission developed and how the Marists produced the books they used to spread their Catholic beliefs. In pits behind the house, hides are processed in urine as they were in days past.

Our guide told us that just one small hide produced a stench she could smell from the gatehouse. Luckily, the skins we saw were further along in the process, being stretched and dried. This leather was for the book covers.

In a downstairs room, known to the guides as the ‘workout room’, the brothers used to treat the leather by putting it on a frame they walked on while using rollers on their arms to further treat other hides.

There was other equipment in this gym-like room, but we were told that one brother got to ‘skive off’. The skive, a sharp tool that cut and smoothed leather, was not as physically demanding to use, though it required a skilled hand.

Upstairs we saw the old printing presses, late 16th- and early 17th-century technology and out of date even when they were brought to New Zealand. We saw how the printers used to ‘coin a phrase’, the quoin being a wedge that held the type in place, then they ‘cut (the paper) to the chase’ before making a ‘first impression’. Many of our everyday expressions and words owe a lot to this printing process.

West to Waimate

Russell Wharf

On another day we headed west along the old missionary route (New Zealand’s first road) from Kerikeri to Waimate North. Our destination was the mission known as Te Waimate. This was the Church Missionary Society’s model farm, founded in 1830 by Samuel Marsden with the encouragement of local Ngāpuhi, who were keen to learn the benefits of agriculture.

Charles Darwin was an early visitor. He had been unimpressed with vice-ridden Russell and the scrubby ‘useless’ scenery between Paihia and Waimate. Then he got a pleasant surprise - he saw an English-style settlement with tidy fields, fruit trees and all the signs of English civilisation: tea and cricket on the lawn.

Georgian architecture at Te Waimate Mission Station

Nowadays Waimate North is a sleepy crossroads with almost all the mission buildings gone. The church of St John the Baptist is surrounded by its graveyard where early missionaries and settler families were laid to rest.

There are also graves of British soldiers who died fighting Māori during the Northern Wars. Beside the church is the only remaining house from the mission era, the ‘old vicarage’ built by George Clarke in 1831 (the second-oldest wooden building in New Zealand).

There are spacious rooms inside, though it is hard to imagine where George and Martha’s 13 children found a place to go to bed. In the mission grounds are the sites of other homesteads, schools and cottages, although all that is left now are mounds and hollows.

Historic Hōreke

Inside the store

We continued on our discovery of the old trade route by heading to the Hokianga Harbour. Just past the sleepy settlement of Hōreke, once one of New Zealand’s first shipyards, we came to Mangungu Mission House. This was a Wesleyan venture, established in 1828, with the present house built just before the signing of the Treaty of Waitangi.

After Waitangi, the treaty was taken around the country and, at Mangungu, the most significant signing took place. There were between 2000 and 3000 Māori present that day and 700 chiefs debated and signed the document.

Later, the mission at Mangungu was disbanded, and the house moved to Onehunga in Auckland where it was used as a Methodist manse. In the 1970s, the building was returned to Mangungu and restored by Heritage New Zealand.

Mangungu Church

Inside the house are relics of missionary days with portraits of the missionaries and their Māori protector, Patuone. The house is on the rise overlooking the Hokianga Harbour and has a historic cemetery where I discovered that many early settlers and visitors sadly died by drowning.

There is a tiny church and also a wonderful (fully wallpapered) long-drop toilet. We were the only visitors on this occasion, although it is interesting to visit on February 12 (as we have done in the past) since this is the date the mission commemorates the treaty signing.

Mangungu, like Te Waimate, Pompallier, the Stone Store and Kemp House are all owned and maintained by Heritage New Zealand. Opening hours vary, but admission is free for Heritage New Zealand members. We found the guided tours at Kemp House and Pompallier Mission fascinating. Following the old trade route gave us the perfect excuse to explore the Bay of Islands and the Hokianga Harbour. 

FURTHER INFORMATION

• There are a variety of places for motorhomers to stay when exploring the area, with a range of commercial campgrounds in Kerikeri and the Bay of Islands (though only one on the Hokianga Harbour) and, for NZMCA members, the park at Rainbow Falls, Kerikeri. In the Hokianga, we parked at the Horeke Tavern and at Waimate North we stayed at the showgrounds. At Russell, we stayed at a Park Over Property.
• Information about the old trade route in the Bay of Islands and Hokianga can be obtained at visitheritage.org.nz. Other useful websites are: kerikeri.co.nz; russellnz.co.nz; hokianga.com
• Visitor information i-SITES are located at Kerikeri: 460 Kerikeri Road Russell: on the wharf
• Paihia: on the wharf
• Hokianga: 29 SH12, Opononi